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Braeval 12 year old Douglas Laing Old Particular - Whisky Review

Subtle and introspective, this is a "U-shaped" dram with the most interesting stuff is going on in the nose and the finish.




The details

Distillery: Braeval, built as "Braes of Glenlivet" in 1973. Closed in 2002; reopened 2008.

Owner: Chivas Brothers/Pernod Ricard

Translation: Bràigh a' Bhaile: Above the town

Region: Speyside

Bottler: Douglas Laing

Age: 12 years

Distilled/bottled: August 2009/November 2021

Bottle: 70cl. Good cork. Good fit.

Number of bottles: 896

ABV: 48.4%

Cask type: Single cask: Refill butt DL15378

Barley: Unstated

Yeast: Unstated

Filtered/coloured: Un-chill-filtered, natural colour.

Sample date: April 2023

Peated/unpeated: Unpeated

Cost: £66.95 from Master of Malt

Availability: Single cask, limited edition. Still available at this time.

Barcode: 5014218820904

More info: -


Formerly known as Braes of Glenlivet, the name was changed to Braeval to differentiate it from the Glenlivet brand. It was mothballed in 2002 and brought back into production in 2008. Like Allt A'Bhainne, it's not a well-known distillery—despite its claim to fame as the highest distillery in Scotland—sitting at 1150 feet.


Tasting notes


Eye

Very pale in colour; this could be mistaken for white wine in the glass. Thin, streaky legs.


Nose

It starts with toffee apple. followed by Mr Kipling almond slices. White chocolate, lemon meringue pie, buttered bread. Fruity, with hints of grassyness underneath. Moderate barley sugar in the middle, with a thread of spearmint cutting through. When first opening this bottle, there was a slight tire rubber smell, which seems to have left now; having been open for a few months.


After water: Things get a bit bready. Nothing jumps out singularly. The menthol element is still there. Nose prickle recedes. It's very laid-back now. You have to sit calmly with this one to get onto it's wavelength. This is classical music, not rock and roll.

SCORE: 19/25


Taste

Honey comes first, followed by brown sugar and a sweet barley body. Tangy green apples. Quite dry on the palette. A dusting of white pepper and a pocket of herbal influences right at the bottom. Very light on the wood spice (it seems not much cask interaction from such a large refill cask of 896 bottles). This is more spirit-driven than cask-driven, which makes sense as it's a refill butt. It's not the most complex of drams, but it works. The elements balance out. After 12 years, there's a little fire to it, which is highlighting the warm brown sugar. It has bite, but it's still enjoyable on its own at 48.4%.


After water: More sweetness comes out. The green apple and toffee are still the prominent notes, with a malty base. For me, this is a "U-shaped" dram: the most interesting stuff is going on in the nose and the finish.

SCORE: 15/25


Finish

An unexpected floral note appears on the finish; like lavender. Is it just me? The apple note turns a little sour and dry on the palette, which fades slowly away. Malt comes forward again. It leaves a little prickle on the tongue, and a lasting sugary warmth which sits well with the residual sharpness of apple. A little creaminess turns up at the very end, like single cream poured over stewed apples. The lemon meringue pie is also still on the table. The finish is longer and deeper than I expected.


After water: Still an impressively long, fruity and malty finish. Nothing changes remarkably.

SCORE: 19/25


Overall

This is a perfectly decent dram with its own character, but it seemed to hide away at first. It's not big, bold, and in-your-face. It seems younger than it is, coming from a refill cask, but it has something to say, if you stop and listen. It will tell you more of the washbacks and stills of Braeval than its slumber in a cask.

SCORE: 18/25


Final verdict

You have to dig around to find out what it's about. It could quite easily get lost in a flight of sherried speysides and peaty islays. Just because it's not shouty doesn't mean it should be written off as dull. It's subtle and introspective. It's the person that hangs around in the kitchen at a house party because it's easier to have a deep conversation away from the music. I've sat with this for an hour. It's a dram for quiet reflection. Bring patience.

TOTAL: 71/100



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